I’m so happy to be a part of the Marjorie Release Blog Tour! Hazel & Gather is a brand new pattern company whose patterns can be found at the Do It Better Yourself Club. I had the opportunity to test drive this pattern just before its release. With lots of neckline and sleeve options, it’s sure to be the staple swing dress in your closet! This tutorial will give you one more sleeve option to add to the mix.
One trend I’ve seen all over fashion this fall are bell sleeves! I love how flowy and feminine bell sleeves are. They can be dramatic, with tons of volume. You can wear them with a jacket, or dress them down for the weekend. Whether you are a confident beginner or seasoned seamstress, you can learn to draft and sew your own bell sleeves.
BELL SLEEVE TUTORIAL:
Today I will show you how easy it is to draft bell sleeves using the recently released Marjorie Dress Pattern by Hazel & Gather. (If you scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a quick pattern review with the links to the other posts on the blog tour.)
I shortened the dress into a top. If you need some help doing that, Sierra of Crafty Momma Drama will be sharing a Long Tee Hack later this week!
{This post contains affiliate links. Please refer to ‘About’ in the top menu for more info.}
{This post contains affiliate links. Please refer to ‘About’ in the top menu for more info.}
First things first…grab your sleeve pattern piece and take a look at the recommended materials for this project!
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You will need to decide where to end your sleeve. If you’re not sure, search some google images for inspiration. There are seriously so many options! If you’re feeling ambitious, you could even try a 2 tiered bell sleeve! I wanted my sleeve to end just above my elbow and the bell sleeve to end in the middle of my forearm, for 3/4 length sleeves. I am using the 1/2 length sleeve and ending it on the banded length.
To get a sense of how long your bell sleeve should be, you’ll need to measure your body. Place the plastic tape measure where your sleeve pattern ends. (Mine is just above the crook in my arm.) This is where your bell sleeve begins. Measure how long you want it to be. Mine was 5.5” so that it ends mid-forearm.
You will now draw a rectangle on white paper using the quilting ruler. (If you don’t have a quilting ruler, you could trace using the grid on your cutting mat.) Measure the width of the bottom edge of your sleeve pattern. This is the width of the rectangle.
The length of the rectangle is however long you wanted your bell sleeve to be + your hem allowance.
(Mine was 5 1/2 inches + 1/2 inch seam allowance = 6 inches length)
Mark your center fold line. Cut it out using paper scissors, not your good fabric scissors – capiche?
Fold your rectangle in 4ths (I marked with dotted lines so you could see it).
Cut on the dotted lines so you have 4 equal strips.
Place your first section on the right side of your colored paper, near the bottom corner. Tape the first section into place. WOW, that yellow paper is bright!
Now for the fun part! Line the 2nd section up, so it’s touching the first at the top and spread it at the bottom. For a subtle bell sleeve, spread it about 1” at the bottom. For a more dramatic bell sleeve, you could add 2” or more in between sections.
Repeat with the 3rd and 4th sections. I used my ruler to add 1 1/2” inches in between my sections. If you look closely, you can see my pen marks near the bottom of the page where I marked my increments.
Add your seam allowance to the top of the bell sleeve. I personally find it much easier to sew in the bell sleeve with a ¼” seam allowance. Add your hem – I allowed for a ½” hem.
Cut out 2 bell sleeves, on the fold.
Time to sew! Fold you bell sleeve in half, right sides together, and sew, press to one side.
Place your sleeve edge and your bell sleeve right sides together, matching up at the marks using your wonder clips.
Sew the seam in the round. (I’m using a serger, but you can use a sewing machine.)
Clip with your snippers and turn the sleeve right side out. Press this seam down, towards the edge of the bell sleeve. Next, fold up the 1/2″ hem and topstitch using a twin needle on your sewing machine or coverstitch machine.
…Or don’t hem, I won’t tell! When I got to this part I decided to leave the hem off. Many knits don’t unravel, so there is no need to hem unless you want to.
That’s it for the tutorial, it really is simple to DIY your own bell sleeves. Wear your bell sleeve top with pride!
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THE PATTERN REVIEW:
Because this was a muslin, I used an inexpensive rayon/spandex fabric. My bust measures at 32.5” which is just bigger than the size 0. I decided to cut out the size 0 anyway, because I was using such a thin fabric. I didn’t make any shoulder adjustments to this pattern and I didn’t need to! This has a lot to do with the armscye shape of the Marjorie. It doesn’t jut out at the top of the armscye, which is good for people like me with narrow shoulders. The fit is a little snug, but it’s still very comfortable! When I make this again, I will probably size up…especially if I use a more structured fabric.
Pattern Adjustments:Like I mentioned above, I shortened the dress into a top. I freehanded the cut edge of my shirt and I really like how it turned out! I slimmed the bodice 3/4″ on the sides. I didn’t hem my bodice because I just wasn’t in the mood! …And I like how it flows without a hem.
This fabric is not the greatest at hiding lumps and bumps, but it has amazing drape! I think next time I’d like to use a nicer rayon/spandex a brushed poly or a modal fabric. Oooh, a french terry would be so pretty! Sometimes it’s hard to choose….decisions, decisions. Next time I want a bigger and more flared bell sleeve!
What do you think? What kind of a bell sleeve would you make?
If you make your own bell sleeved top, I would love to see it in the Facebook group!
As always, thank you for reading! If you have any questions, please comment below. Don’t forget to check out the other posts on the Blog Tour!
The Marjorie Blog Tour Schedule
September 18th – Seams Sew Lo | Diskordia’s Curvy Sewing
September 19th – Swimming in a Sea of Estrogen | Mama You Can Make It For Me
September 20th – Stitched by Jennie
September 21st – Crafty Momma Drama
September 22nd – The Needle and the Belle | The Petite Sewist
{Disclaimer: I was provided with a free pattern in exchange for an honest review. All opinions expressed are my own and not influenced by the company in any way.}
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