Hi guys! It’s been a while. I hope you’ve been enjoying the New Year! Things have been interesting around my neck of the woods. We got hit with a snowstorm a couple weeks ago, and our whole region got shut down for almost a week! We almost never get snow here in Charleston and my neighborhood got 6″ in one day! My fabric mail got delayed for 5 days. What a nightmare, lol!
Also, I got hit with a cold around the same time and it has just lingered and lingered. I’m hoping this week that it will go away completely so I can get my groove back. I finished this jacket a couple weeks ago but it was white and yucky and I’ve been sick. I’m so happy that I finally got it photographed! It was 28 degrees outside when these were taken.
Can you tell I’m freezing?
McCall’s 7199 is a draped collar jacket with pockets and options for a zipper, a toggle closure, or no closures. I used a squishy brushed sweater knit that I purchased from Love Adore last winter.
I omitted the color-blocking in the back bodice since I made the jacket in a single color. This is done by marking the seam line (5/8″ from the edge in CORAL) on the pattern pieces. Then, I taped the pattern pieces together at the SEAM line.
For every pattern I sew, I make the following fit adjustments: small bust adjustment (SBA), narrow shoulder adjustment, and I adjust the pattern for my petite height.
For the SBA, I reduced the bust curve of the front and side front as shown here. Then, I used this SBA method to adjust the front only. This pattern is a bit of a mess, but I promise there is a method to my madness!
When making sweaters or outerwear, I find it especially helpful to compare the shoulder width and garment length with similar items I have in my closet. My fabric had a LOT of horizontal stretch ( 100% H, 50% V) , so I made sure not to skimp on my narrow shoulder adjustment. I am really pleased with where the armscye hits at the edge of my shoulder.
This pattern has a self facing that you must, unfortunately, hand sew to the bodice front. Maybe you like sewing by hand – I don’t. I really, really don’t. The repetitive motion leaves me with shoulder pain so I get kind of cranky if that’s what the instructions tell me to do. I have a bit of mistrust with Big 4 patterns. Sometimes I find the instructions and illustrations to not be very clear. This was the case with this pattern. It took me a bit longer to figure out but now I have a soft jacket/sweater that fits! And that facing does look really nice and is very secure with that hand stitching! 🙂
Now, what about fabric?
I’ve seen several people ask about McCall’s 7199 in FB groups and some have asked which fabrics to pair it with. The answer is: It depends which view you want to do. If you want the view with the zipper, you are going to need a fabric with some stability: I’d recommend cotton french terry. Now, if you’re doing the view with the toggle closure, you can pick rayon french terry or something more lightweight with some drape. I thought this sweater knit was more midweight, but it is so stretchy that it shows the waviness at the front hem like CRAZY.
Not super happy with that, I have to say. You can see by how I’m holding the jacket how it could have looked had I done the toggle closure. I knew if I had added a toggle, I’d be fussing with the draped neckline like crazy and it would never look ‘just right’. I went with the fuss-free version and just left the jacket open.
Can I just say…the way the instructions tell you to hem the back bodice: just, no! Don’t gather the edge and press it up. Good grief, don’t these people actually sew with knits?! It’s so much easier to use fusible web to hold the hem in place and then sew it with a twin needle or coverstitch. The hem needs to stretch – it can’t if it has gathering stitches sewn into it. Sorry, rant over!
I DID remove length on my pattern, but I ended up hemming it a bit more than instructed because it was a tad too long. This means that my pockets got in the way of the hem a bit. No problem…I can just reposition the pockets higher next time.
Despite my mixed feelings over this pattern, I think it was sized really well. I do like the design and my jacket fits.
I’m really happy I finally cut into this sweater knit!
Did I mention that this is the FIRST sweater knit I’ve ever cut and sewn? I absolutely love this jacket and have worn it almost EVERY SINGLE DAY since I made it.
If you’re holding onto some sweater knits (or debating whether to buy them) I urge you to cut and sew and wear. Outerwear is so fun because you can wear it multiple days in a row. And sweater knits just feel amazing and you need some amazing in your life!