You guys, I made Liana jeans again!
It was quite the learning curve the first time, but this pair went together much more smoothly. Since I’ll beginning my spring and summer in a different size, I’m in desperate need of shorts. The fabric is a dark wash denim from Cali Fabrics’ brick and mortar store. It has just under 20% stretch and is amazingly soft.
I learned a lot from sewing my first pair of jeans. I learned that fly zippers are not scary: like with any other project, it is step by step. I learned that installing rivets and jeans buttons is so much fun! I learned that I can make a pretty good jeans buttonhole, just with a zig-zag stitch.
This time, I tried my hand at pocket embellishments. Closet Case Files has a free file of back pocket topstitching templates that can be adapted to any jeans back pocket. I chose this swirly one. I tend to gravitate towards a simple design with curves.
I cut my pocket facings and waistband lining in this cheerful pineapple print! Pineapples on the waistband lining means that the waistband doesn’t stretch as I wear it. I love that these pineapples will greet me each time I slip this pair of shorts on!
I had some issues with my muslin that didn’t make any sense. While tracing the master pattern for this size, I realized my error: I had traced the largest size on the top of my pants and the largest size on the side seams. This explains why the fit was so wonky in certain places! I’m sure glad I didn’t stress about that too much. I never would have figured it out without returning to the pattern.
This time around I made a size 0 at the hips and a size 2 at the side seams. I ONLY graded out at the side seams (I left the crotch seam at a size 0). I shortened the rise by 3/8″ in the front and back. The back rise was still too tall, so I shaved off 3/8″ at the center back and tapered to nothing at the side seams. There is still a little bubble below the waistband, so I need to take off a tad bit more.
This pair of jeans fits a lot better than my first, but there are still improvements to be made. For my next pair, I am going to try extend the back crotch curve slightly. That should take care of the puckering at the back crotch curve. I think this is a problem because my fabric doesn’t have quite as much stretch as the pattern calls for. I’d also like to try a narrow thigh adjustment on the back leg. There is just so much fabric pooling below my bum and that’s not how I want my pants to look.
I tried distressing my dark wash denim and I don’t recommend it! This particular fabric just doesn’t take to distressing well. Next time I distress my denim, I’m definitely going to distress a sample piece first. You really don’t need to distress a dark blue or black denim, though. Grab a great contrasting thread, and let your denim do the talking.
I haven’t had pants that fit in so long I forgot how form-fitting they are. That’s why the waistband on my first pair was a little large. This pair fits perfectly and I’m so happy! There are still some fit issues – the back thigh area needs some attention, but I’m satisfied with them and can improve with my next pair.
I’m still so happy that I’ve learned to correct for a flat pubis bone. This little adjustment makes the crotch area so much more comfortable!
I honestly don’t think I will ever go back to RTW jeans. I would never be able to find a pair of jeans that fit like this in the store. I’m pretty proud of myself that after 2 muslins, I have a pair of jeans that I love to wear! I hope that if you’re considering making jeans that you feel encouraged. This is only the 3rd pair of real pants I’ve ever made, and they look like RTW. If I can do it, you can do it.
Have a great day and happy sewing!
- I have included my Itch to Stitch affiliate link.