The last several weeks I have been testing the new Women’s Linden Shorts by Sew a Little Seam. I chose to make the chino style shorts with welt pockets and front slant pockets. There is a front fly and a curved waistband, complete with a button closure. As with most of Kelly’s patterns, there are tons of options. In addition to the chino style shorts I made, this pattern includes jean style shorts, elastic waistband option, and the ability to use knit fabric instead of woven. It’s like four patterns in one, so it’s a great value.
I chose to test this pattern because I had the perfect twill in my stash I was dying to use. The instructions are straightforward and I felt that the sizing was appropriate. I made a size 00 and graded it out to a 0/2 at the top of the pants. I used a 2/4 for waistband. I deviated from the instructions just a bit due to a time constraint. I chose to omit the bias tape on the inside waistband and instead finish the edge with my serger. I secured the waistband by stitching in the ditch on the right side. The pants fit the day I made them, then were loose the day I shot these pictures. So if they look slightly big, that’s why.
This 9.5 oz organic cotton twill is from Hart’s Fabrics. This aqua is my favorite color! I love being able to make my own pants so I can get a custom fit! This pattern has custom fitting help and illustrations. I also like this jeans fitting adjustment article. I have recently purchased two books that help with pants fitting, The first one is Pants for Real People and the second is Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure. If you want to learn how to make pants and you have some fitting challenges to deal with I highly recommend checking out these resources.
I knew I would need a flat seat adjustment, and a thin thigh adjustment. For this pattern, I also needed a full pubis adjustment. This is interesting because with the Liana and Mountain View Jeans I needed a flat pubis adjustment.
I still had some fitting problems, so I decided to tackle the issue a different way. I made a tin foil crotch curve, which isn’t super accurate, but if you do it a few times you can kind of get an average. I compared my body with the crotch curve of the patterns and found that I had a much lower seat than it was drafted for. Most of the time when I read blogs or pattern books they tell me to lower the seat by a quarter of an inch. When comparing my body to the pattern I noticed that I needed a substantial low seat adjustment. I always feel like my pants are poking me in the crotch and now I know why. The crotch curve also confirmed my need for a full pubis adjustment. The next time I muslin a pair pants, I am going to purchase this FLEXIBLE RULER. It can be molded to your body and it will stay molded much better than foil.
My fabric was a little on the heavier side (IMO) for the chinos version. I personally would prefer a 7-8 oz twill or a lightweight linen. The welt pocket has a lot of layers, which didn’t work so well when I tried to finish the pockets with a french seam. I seam ripped that baby and finished the seam with a row of stitching and a overlocked seam allowance. It caused me a bit of a headache, but it’s fine now.
So happy to have another pair of shorts to carry me into our Carolina fall! Which I will be able to enjoy as soon as Hurricane Florence leaves my city. Please stay away from my house!! Not the fabric!