The last several weeks I have been testing the new Women’s Linden Shorts by Sew a Little Seam. I chose to make the chino style shorts with welt pockets and front slant pockets. There is a front fly and a curved waistband, complete with a button closure. As with most of Kelly’s patterns, there are tons of options. In addition to the chino style shorts I made, this pattern includes jean style shorts, elastic waistband option, and the ability to use knit fabric instead of woven. It’s like four patterns in one, so it’s a great value.
I chose to test this pattern because I had the perfect twill in my stash I was dying to use. The instructions are straightforward and I felt that the sizing was appropriate. I made a size 00 and graded it out to a 0/2 at the top of the pants. I used a 2/4 for waistband. I deviated from the instructions just a bit due to a time constraint. I chose to omit the bias tape on the inside waistband and instead finish the edge with my serger. I secured the waistband by stitching in the ditch on the right side. The pants fit the day I made them, then were loose the day I shot these pictures. So if they look slightly big, that’s why.
This 9.5 oz organic cotton twill is from Hart’s Fabrics. This aqua is my favorite color! I love being able to make my own pants so I can get a custom fit! This pattern has custom fitting help and illustrations. I also like this jeans fitting adjustment article. I have recently purchased two books that help with pants fitting, The first one is Pants for Real People and the second is Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure. If you want to learn how to make pants and you have some fitting challenges to deal with I highly recommend checking out these resources.
I knew I would need a flat seat adjustment, and a thin thigh adjustment. For this pattern, I also needed a full pubis adjustment. This is interesting because with the Liana and Mountain View Jeans I needed a flat pubis adjustment.
I still had some fitting problems, so I decided to tackle the issue a different way. I made a tin foil crotch curve, which isn’t super accurate, but if you do it a few times you can kind of get an average. I compared my body with the crotch curve of the patterns and found that I had a much lower seat than it was drafted for. Most of the time when I read blogs or pattern books they tell me to lower the seat by a quarter of an inch. When comparing my body to the pattern I noticed that I needed a substantial low seat adjustment. I always feel like my pants are poking me in the crotch and now I know why. The crotch curve also confirmed my need for a full pubis adjustment. The next time I muslin a pair pants, I am going to purchase this FLEXIBLE RULER. It can be molded to your body and it will stay molded much better than foil.
My fabric was a little on the heavier side (IMO) for the chinos version. I personally would prefer a 7-8 oz twill or a lightweight linen. The welt pocket has a lot of layers, which didn’t work so well when I tried to finish the pockets with a french seam. I seam ripped that baby and finished the seam with a row of stitching and a overlocked seam allowance. It caused me a bit of a headache, but it’s fine now.
So happy to have another pair of shorts to carry me into our Carolina fall! Which I will be able to enjoy as soon as Hurricane Florence leaves my city. Please stay away from my house!! Not the fabric!
These are so pretty and it looks like you got a good fit!!
These shorts look so great! I actually like when my trousers loosen up and become a bit slouchy. I’m all about comfort. Fabulous creation and thorough review. Very, very well done!
Thanks so much Gail!