In 2019 the Archer Button Up by Grainline Studios was among my #makenine , which is nine articles of clothing I planned to sew in the year. Time got away from me and my project sat on the shelf. I decided this would be my first make of 2020.
A lot has happened since I made my last Archer Button Up. Four years ago I had a new baby and was nursing. I was up a couple of cup sizes which meant I didn’t need a SBA for the first time in my life, yay! I measured as an 8, but cut out a 6. I was 20 lbs. heavier than I am now, and yet I have continued to wear my first button up and I still LOVE this shirt! It’s not in my nature to wear roomy shirts. However, I have enjoyed the shirt so much it made me fall in love with the roomy fit of the Archer.
My Second Archer Button Up
For my second Archer, I decided not to crop the sleeves. This would be complete with cuffs and the whole shebang! I pulled this Manchester Yarn Dyed Chambray in Berry (a Robert Kaufman fabric) out of my stash. This was one of my last purchases at the shop I taught at in Charleston before we moved. I don’t usually gravitate towards plain pink, but the texture of this chambray stopped me in my tracks! Isn’t it fun?! I love that it can be a little wrinkled and it doesn’t matter.
I measured for a 4 and I cut out a 4. I made a narrow shoulder adjustment, but the shoulders were still too wide. I should have sized down to a 2. I was able to reposition the top of the sleeves to fit my frame a bit better. Petite adjustments included removing 2″ height in the bodice and 2.5″ in the sleeves. These height adjustments were PERFECT! It’s not often that I get it right the first time…but I guess this was my second attempt. I used the previous shirt to get things right.
If my memory serves me right, this is the first cuff I have ever constructed. I was a little nervous to do so, and disappointed to find the instructions a bit sparse. I found an Archer sew along on the Grainline Studios website and thought I would finally get some help, until I realized that the entire cuff blog post was missing. However, I was able to do a google image search for the same sew along and use just the pictures from the post. I couldn’t zoom in or click on them but it was enough to answer my questions.
After sewing the cuffs I can honestly say that it wasn’t that bad! ….And then I found a hole where the edge of the binding had come loose from the sleeve and I had to take a portion of it apart, lol.
I sewed nine buttonholes in the making of this shirt. It really gave me an appreciation for my automatic buttonhole foot! Seriously, nothing is more wonderful than sewing multiple buttonholes the same size and shape with minimal effort.
The Pocket Was Too Big
The Archer pocket is the SAME size for every size!! I really don’t think it’s suited to the smaller sizes and definitely too long for petites. After attaching the pocket I decided it was too long for my frame. I removed 3/4″ length and reattached it 1/2″ above the placement line.
Everything else went off without a hinge, except that I accidentally cut a very tiny hole in the back bodice with my serger knife while finishing the side seams. OH THE HORROR! Hopefully the hole is sufficiently repaired…I’ll try to put some Fray Check on it soon.
I like this shirt so much, I’m going to make an effort to make one more Archer this year… or one for me and one for my mom. Also, I am teaching a shirt-making class in April, so if you’re local you should definitely check it out at Quilter’s Corner!